11

Showroom / Re: 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes

« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:06:54 pm »

Some pix of Mini1 and MiniM24 - Mini1 is based on Chris Cornbill's versions of the Hellplane - these have spring based wing swing actuation, and can go from slightly negative to full horizontal mode. I have to admit these are the most fun versions to fly! Mini1 is not the most efficient, but can do some crazy aerobatics! MiniM24 uses the M24 version of wings, which are more efficient.

12

Showroom / 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes

« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:00:13 pm »

It's been more than 5 years now of designing and building various versions of our eVTOL designs, all using Librepilot to fly.
Since last summer, we've designed and 3D printed 8 different planes, all in PLA. ALthough not as resistant to damage as the carbon fiber and foam versions we've been building up to now, the 3D printed ones are surprisingly lighter and more agile. The wings are mostly 1 layer (0.4mm) thick skin, but in some places reinforced with a double layer in the leading edge. The flight power board has been updated to use 8 wire JST SH cables, which simplifies hookup and increases reliability. They all have two regulators, one for the rcvr and flight controller, the other for servos. Not all the planes are 3D printed, there are carbon fiber spars in the wings and fiberglass rods in the landing gear. One of the beauties of 3D printing is the low cost (it runs less than $10 in PLA to print a plane - power for the printers is solar so its free), and although it takes about a printer-week to print one, replacing damaged parts is generally easy and quick. 3D printing changed my whole method of designing and building - now often I'll just print a part to test when new ideas come up. And when semi-major changes come - we just make a whole new plane! Also takes pressure off in test flying - if we break it, just print replacement parts or a new plane! PLA is not the best for this - a very hot day in the car will soften it, but as we dont usually get those kind of days here, and just taking a little care, its worth it for the low cost. We'll build some in PETG later.

13

Applications - FPV / Low battery warning in OSD

« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 07:16:12 pm »

Hopefully jdl or others can help with this - I thot I had fixed it a few years ago, but can't remember what I did!
I got some new MinimOSD devices and programmed them with what I think is the latest version to to work with next.
Seems to work fine - except I keep getting a low battery warning in the alert area.
Anyone know how to turn that particular warning off?

14

General Discussion / Re: New users not able to create accounts

« Last post by TheOtherCliff on October 26, 2023, 10:06:43 am »

I have posted a request on dev chat about this.
I would suspect it might be some time before resolution.

15

General Discussion / New users not able to create accounts

« Last post by paulj on October 22, 2023, 10:06:30 am »

Posting publicly, as I am not sure who managed the forum software. There are a couple of new comments on the Atlassian pages where potential new users are not receiving emails when trying to create accounts.

Is someone able to follow this up?

16

Hardware / Help with ideas for replacing the RFM22B on an OpLink

« Last post by TheOtherCliff on September 29, 2023, 08:43:34 pm »

I'm currently replacing the 433MHz RFM22B on an OpLink (actually a non-OP "OpLink Ground") with a 915MHz component.

I've done this successfully in the past too, but after a long and painful process, generally wind up with damaged connection points on the RFM and even causing a little minor damage to the "OpLink Ground" PCB.  Will do the "OpLink Air" after this.

So far I have always slid a dulled razor blade (the thin kind) under the pads as I desolder them.  A pain.  And another pain to work around the components close to the RFM board (worse with "OpLink Ground").

I'm looking for a better / easier way to do this.

I have a hot air gun (with many tip sizes) and Kapton tape, but am afraid of loosing components right next to the RFM board, even with Kapton covering them.  I have only used Kapton a few times and never lost a covered component.  Working with the whole board hot is probably difficult.  Am I worrying too much?  Large nozzle for more heat or small, worked back and forth over both sets of connectors?  Hmm...  I have plenty of OP OpLinks, maybe I should just try it.

Tape it.  Hold it somehow.  Heat quickly while trying to pry the RFM off with a dulled #11 Xacto.

I have also considered just cutting the RFM board up with a Dremel so it can be removed one connection at a time.  This would be hazardous for cutting OpLink PCB traces and a pain cutting it, but may be the best way.

I could also remove the closest components on the RFM side, use hot air with Kapton, then put components back.

I will probably want to do a Revo / Sparky2 in the future.

Any ideas?

Anyone know of a source to buy non-stock OpLinks/Revos/Sparky2s?

17

Applications - FPV / MOVED: XT30 or XT60?

« Last post by TheOtherCliff on September 29, 2023, 07:47:29 pm »

This topic has been moved to General Discussion.

https://forum.librepilot.org/index.php?topic=5043.0

18

General Discussion / Re: XT30 or XT60?

« Last post by TheOtherCliff on September 29, 2023, 07:45:31 pm »

It's my assumption that the 30 60 90 are the max amps.

So I generally choose the connector of the max amps of most of my aircraft unless there is a weight or size problem with the larger connectors.

I have made adapters in some cases.  I have some aircraft with Deans T plug and most batteries I buy are now XT-60.  Also sometimes I want to use a larger battery on an aircraft that has a JST connector.

It is my guess that the XT-60 is probably a bit more standard than the others.

19

General Discussion / XT30 or XT60?

« Last post by Gray on August 29, 2023, 04:26:37 am »

I hope you can provide some guidance! I fly FPV quads and recently got a second-hand Tinyhawk 3. It's not equipped with the factory XT30 connectors but has been upgraded to XT60. Meanwhile, my spare batteries have XT30 connectors.

I'm looking to standardize all the connectors to the same type to save hassle. Is it necessary to change everything to either XT30 or XT60? I've been searching for information about the current ratings supported by the connectors and related details, like this article which suggests XT60 is better, but I've been stuck in a loop. So, if you can offer any advice, I'd greatly appreciate it.

20

General Discussion / Re: What is the current status of LibrePilot and the Revolution?

« Last post by TheOtherCliff on June 07, 2023, 10:29:10 am »

We have been working on getting a real release out for going on a year now.  Efforts to predict when a release will come out are usually wrong.  I'm sorry about the delay.

If you want most of what is to be in the upcoming release, you can go to the 'next downloads' and get the latest (I think it is r782).

My understanding is that Ardupilot is good stuff and has good autonomous flight support if that is your direction.  There is a learning curve.  That is offset by the fact that it is popular and there are a lot of guides and advice about it.  There is probably a list somewhere of boards that Ardupilot supports.  I would guess that they do support Revo and Sparky2, but as I recall, they do not support the on-board OpLink on these boards.  I have searched some and the only firmware I have found that supports the on-board OpLink is LibrePilot (/OpenPilot).  Timing is critical for both stabilization and for telemetry, and it takes a sophisticated firmware base to handle both at the same time.  My guess is this is the reason it is not supported.

Porcupinerc sells both Revos and Sparky2s for good prices.  One of those has free shipping and that makes it a better deal.  I and others have bought some of each there and been happy with them.

You can certainly dabble in several different firmware ecosystems to see what you like the best.