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General Discussion / Re: Best way to setup failsafe
« Last post by eighttram on July 12, 2020, 01:34:18 am »
Thank you for the info, I originally couldn't get the Tx to safe a failsafe but was able to make it work today.
Thank you again!
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General Discussion / Re: Best way to setup failsafe
« Last post by TheOtherCliff on July 10, 2020, 08:52:27 am »
There are two kinds of failsafe, RC (radio control) and FC (flight controller).

RC failsafe uses features of the radio and the FC never knows the radio is out of range since it continues to get servo pulses from the radio.  You set the radio to do exactly this and this with all the channels.  For your desire to have it drop out of the air (which is the best unless you have GPS ... correctly configured GPS flight modes and failsafe can make it fly back to where it took off) typically the only thing you must have is for the throttle channel to go to zero.  You must read your radio manual to determine how to set up and use (RC) failsafe, and what kinds of (RC) failsafe are available in it.

Part of RC failsafe, and usually the radio default setup is to "hold the last known channel positions".  This is the worst possible setup as it guarantees a fly away as soon as you get out of range.  Some radios only have this and there is no way to change it.  That is the worst.  From what I think you said, this sounds like what is going on so you should look for a way to enable the normal RC failsafe, or for a way to disable servo pulses when out of range so you can use FC failsafe (see below).  I suggest Google...  :)

FC failsafe is where the radio is configured to stop sending servo pulses when it flies out of range.  In this case you set up the FC to know the pre-programmed failsafe channel positions and the FC switches to them when it sees the servo pulses go away.

Of course one thing to remember is that the FMS (flight mode switch) is one of the channels.  If you have a Revo class FC with a GPS, the obvious choice is to configure either kind of failsafe to put the sticks in the middle (particularly the throttle since zero throttle can mean "motors off") and set the FMS to RTB (return to base = (by default) return to takeoff location = called return to home in some places).

One time I set up both RC and FC failsafes to figure out what was causing unexpected failsafes on a quad.  RTB configured in both cases, but RC failsafe programmed with a little left yaw and FC failsafe programmed with a little right yaw so during RTB it would spin one way for RC and the other way for FC.  Note that RTB and waypoint quad GPS flight modes allow you to do what you want to with yaw and the quad just flies backwards or sideways as necessary to maintain a straight line back to the takeoff location.
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General Discussion / Best way to setup failsafe
« Last post by eighttram on July 10, 2020, 04:40:57 am »
I am looking to setup a failsafe so if my drone gets out of range it will simply stop flying.
I am using a CC3D board and have not had any luck on the forums or anywhere else for that matter on how to set this up.
If anyone wouldn't mind sharing the ideal way to do this I would greatly appreciate it as I am very new to this!
Thank you in advance!
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General Discussion / Re: (CC3D can't save settings) Problem with settings
« Last post by TheOtherCliff on July 09, 2020, 08:41:46 am »
Just to be certain of the facts:

You have seen that it is broken with both 16.09 and next:r782 (next:8c101adc 20190221).  (So I can use either of these firmwares and it should stay broken.)

You did attempt Erase Settings using that version of "Linux Mint" DVD that I discussed, and it still failed (comes back after about 3 seconds instead of about 23 or so).

Did you say this was a fairly new PC?  What processor is in it?

Erase Settings can be done several different ways.  It shouldn't make any difference, but I would like to do exactly what you did.  How did you do Erase Settings specifically when booted from the Mint DVD?

Upgrading firmware can be done several different ways.  When you upgraded firmware how did you do it?

===============================

I'll start by saving off the current firmware two different ways (GCS and SBL).
Then flash some debug firmware that checks the settings storage for data errors (not hardware errors).
Then flash some debug firmware that dumps out all of settings memory for later analysis if desired.

Then flash the r782 firmware back on it and attempt to Erase Settings with the Linux Mint DVD.

If this succeeds, then it seems fairly well proven that the problem is with your PC or USB cable since that is all that is different from when you used the Linux Mint DVD.  Even if it is your PC, it could be some new hardware that we don't support well yet.  Fast CPU and USB3 immediately come to mind.

If it fails, then more debug code should show where it is failing.
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Vehicles - Helicopters / Re: Cliff Diving PID Setting
« Last post by jcg1541 on July 07, 2020, 06:31:39 am »
Everything geometry wise is identical between the 2 sets. Pivot holes, bolts, etc. The airfoil is the popular NASA0015 .
The airfoil is pictured on this page,
https://nocomputerbutphone.blogspot.com/2018/10/oxy-210-blade-characteristics.html
The lighter set is simple nylon. The heavier set is nylon reinforced with graphite.

The only difference is the material.

Grip is tuned by the same procedure as this video,



Some wild guesses.  :)

I can imagine that pitch flexibility (twisting) or loose blade grips or blade grip pivot hole farther back in airfoil or blade airfoil being more tail heavy could cause the blades to overreact to (cyclic) blade pitch changes... and thus to need smaller PIDs.  Are either set of blades weighted?  Weight is usually added close to blade leading edge and that would be more stable and need more throw and more PID to move it?
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Vehicles - Helicopters / Re: Cliff Diving PID Setting
« Last post by TheOtherCliff on July 07, 2020, 05:56:07 am »
Some wild guesses.  :)

I can imagine that pitch flexibility (twisting) or loose blade grips or blade grip pivot hole farther back in airfoil or blade airfoil being more tail heavy could cause the blades to overreact to (cyclic) blade pitch changes... and thus to need smaller PIDs.  Are either set of blades weighted?  Weight is usually added close to blade leading edge and that would be more stable and need more throw and more PID to move it?
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Vehicles - Helicopters / Re: Cliff Diving PID Setting
« Last post by jcg1541 on July 07, 2020, 05:07:15 am »
I have been trying out a new set of heavier rotor blades. And somehow the PIDs ratios between the 2 sets need to be the square power of the blade weight ratio.
The lighter set weighs 14.6 grams,
 
, and the heavier set weighs 17 grams,

.
The 2 sets of blades have the exact same geometry, shape and dimensions.
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General Discussion / Re: Unstable throttle response and roll/pitch oscillations.
« Last post by Jim0000 on July 04, 2020, 12:54:12 pm »
I have done that Cliff.
I will try again though............tomorrow.

Thanks,

Jim.
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I would do calibration as described in wiki.  In particular I would make sure min=1000 and max=1900 and use either [email protected] or PwmSync

https://librepilot.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/LPDOC/pages/12058743/ESC+Calibration
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General Discussion / One ESC not responding to calibration.
« Last post by Jim0000 on July 04, 2020, 03:55:47 am »
I had to replace one of my ESC after one of the flips (did not return throttle to zero quite quick enough!).
I wired it in and it was functioning for a couple of short test flies.
Now it will not respond to throttle. I tried calibrating with all the others and on it's own. Made no difference.
I removed the signal wire from the flight controller and plugged it into a servo tester. With the battery then plugged in, the motor operates as normal.

This ESC is not the same as the other three.

What should I do to correct this and get all four running please?

Jim.
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