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Showroom / Re: 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:11:04 pm »M24 - the design based on the best performing Hellaplane, in terms of flight hours.
Recent Posts
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Showroom / Re: 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:08:55 pm »Racer 1 - the lightest and fastest of the 3D pritned Hellaplanes - fully retracting "landing gear".
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Showroom / Re: 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:07:43 pm »Flite board 2
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Showroom / Re: 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:06:54 pm »Some pix of Mini1 and MiniM24 - Mini1 is based on Chris Cornbill's versions of the Hellplane - these have spring based wing swing actuation, and can go from slightly negative to full horizontal mode. I have to admit these are the most fun versions to fly! Mini1 is not the most efficient, but can do some crazy aerobatics! MiniM24 uses the M24 version of wings, which are more efficient.
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Showroom / 3D printed eVTOL Hellaplanes
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 08:00:13 pm »It's been more than 5 years now of designing and building various versions of our eVTOL designs, all using Librepilot to fly.
Since last summer, we've designed and 3D printed 8 different planes, all in PLA. ALthough not as resistant to damage as the carbon fiber and foam versions we've been building up to now, the 3D printed ones are surprisingly lighter and more agile. The wings are mostly 1 layer (0.4mm) thick skin, but in some places reinforced with a double layer in the leading edge. The flight power board has been updated to use 8 wire JST SH cables, which simplifies hookup and increases reliability. They all have two regulators, one for the rcvr and flight controller, the other for servos. Not all the planes are 3D printed, there are carbon fiber spars in the wings and fiberglass rods in the landing gear. One of the beauties of 3D printing is the low cost (it runs less than $10 in PLA to print a plane - power for the printers is solar so its free), and although it takes about a printer-week to print one, replacing damaged parts is generally easy and quick. 3D printing changed my whole method of designing and building - now often I'll just print a part to test when new ideas come up. And when semi-major changes come - we just make a whole new plane! Also takes pressure off in test flying - if we break it, just print replacement parts or a new plane! PLA is not the best for this - a very hot day in the car will soften it, but as we dont usually get those kind of days here, and just taking a little care, its worth it for the low cost. We'll build some in PETG later.
Since last summer, we've designed and 3D printed 8 different planes, all in PLA. ALthough not as resistant to damage as the carbon fiber and foam versions we've been building up to now, the 3D printed ones are surprisingly lighter and more agile. The wings are mostly 1 layer (0.4mm) thick skin, but in some places reinforced with a double layer in the leading edge. The flight power board has been updated to use 8 wire JST SH cables, which simplifies hookup and increases reliability. They all have two regulators, one for the rcvr and flight controller, the other for servos. Not all the planes are 3D printed, there are carbon fiber spars in the wings and fiberglass rods in the landing gear. One of the beauties of 3D printing is the low cost (it runs less than $10 in PLA to print a plane - power for the printers is solar so its free), and although it takes about a printer-week to print one, replacing damaged parts is generally easy and quick. 3D printing changed my whole method of designing and building - now often I'll just print a part to test when new ideas come up. And when semi-major changes come - we just make a whole new plane! Also takes pressure off in test flying - if we break it, just print replacement parts or a new plane! PLA is not the best for this - a very hot day in the car will soften it, but as we dont usually get those kind of days here, and just taking a little care, its worth it for the low cost. We'll build some in PETG later.
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Applications - FPV / Low battery warning in OSD
« Last post by trust on January 09, 2024, 07:16:12 pm »Hopefully jdl or others can help with this - I thot I had fixed it a few years ago, but can't remember what I did!
I got some new MinimOSD devices and programmed them with what I think is the latest version to to work with next.
Seems to work fine - except I keep getting a low battery warning in the alert area.
Anyone know how to turn that particular warning off?
I got some new MinimOSD devices and programmed them with what I think is the latest version to to work with next.
Seems to work fine - except I keep getting a low battery warning in the alert area.
Anyone know how to turn that particular warning off?
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General Discussion / Re: New users not able to create accounts
« Last post by TheOtherCliff on October 26, 2023, 10:06:43 am »I have posted a request on dev chat about this.
I would suspect it might be some time before resolution.
I would suspect it might be some time before resolution.
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General Discussion / New users not able to create accounts
« Last post by paulj on October 22, 2023, 10:06:30 am »Posting publicly, as I am not sure who managed the forum software. There are a couple of new comments on the Atlassian pages where potential new users are not receiving emails when trying to create accounts.
Is someone able to follow this up?
Is someone able to follow this up?
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Hardware / Help with ideas for replacing the RFM22B on an OpLink
« Last post by TheOtherCliff on September 29, 2023, 08:43:34 pm »I'm currently replacing the 433MHz RFM22B on an OpLink (actually a non-OP "OpLink Ground") with a 915MHz component.
I've done this successfully in the past too, but after a long and painful process, generally wind up with damaged connection points on the RFM and even causing a little minor damage to the "OpLink Ground" PCB. Will do the "OpLink Air" after this.
So far I have always slid a dulled razor blade (the thin kind) under the pads as I desolder them. A pain. And another pain to work around the components close to the RFM board (worse with "OpLink Ground").
I'm looking for a better / easier way to do this.
I have a hot air gun (with many tip sizes) and Kapton tape, but am afraid of loosing components right next to the RFM board, even with Kapton covering them. I have only used Kapton a few times and never lost a covered component. Working with the whole board hot is probably difficult. Am I worrying too much? Large nozzle for more heat or small, worked back and forth over both sets of connectors? Hmm... I have plenty of OP OpLinks, maybe I should just try it.
Tape it. Hold it somehow. Heat quickly while trying to pry the RFM off with a dulled #11 Xacto.
I have also considered just cutting the RFM board up with a Dremel so it can be removed one connection at a time. This would be hazardous for cutting OpLink PCB traces and a pain cutting it, but may be the best way.
I could also remove the closest components on the RFM side, use hot air with Kapton, then put components back.
I will probably want to do a Revo / Sparky2 in the future.
Any ideas?
Anyone know of a source to buy non-stock OpLinks/Revos/Sparky2s?
I've done this successfully in the past too, but after a long and painful process, generally wind up with damaged connection points on the RFM and even causing a little minor damage to the "OpLink Ground" PCB. Will do the "OpLink Air" after this.
So far I have always slid a dulled razor blade (the thin kind) under the pads as I desolder them. A pain. And another pain to work around the components close to the RFM board (worse with "OpLink Ground").
I'm looking for a better / easier way to do this.
I have a hot air gun (with many tip sizes) and Kapton tape, but am afraid of loosing components right next to the RFM board, even with Kapton covering them. I have only used Kapton a few times and never lost a covered component. Working with the whole board hot is probably difficult. Am I worrying too much? Large nozzle for more heat or small, worked back and forth over both sets of connectors? Hmm... I have plenty of OP OpLinks, maybe I should just try it.
Tape it. Hold it somehow. Heat quickly while trying to pry the RFM off with a dulled #11 Xacto.
I have also considered just cutting the RFM board up with a Dremel so it can be removed one connection at a time. This would be hazardous for cutting OpLink PCB traces and a pain cutting it, but may be the best way.
I could also remove the closest components on the RFM side, use hot air with Kapton, then put components back.
I will probably want to do a Revo / Sparky2 in the future.
Any ideas?
Anyone know of a source to buy non-stock OpLinks/Revos/Sparky2s?
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