[blvdbuzzard]

I guess it has been over a year since I picked up these CC3d's and Revo Nano's.  I was having a terrible time getting a stable flight out of any of them.  Most of the problems were the guy behind the Tx or keyboard. 

I bought a GPS unit that was supposed to work with the CC3d and nano, but it never worked.  I tried for weeks every night to get it to even turn on.  Ordered (2) programmers, down loaded the Ublox software and nothing.  Best I got was the blue LED turned on and it sat acquiring satellites.  It would see 1, then drop, see one, drop.  Did that for a full day.  So I gave up and flew my planes and helicopters.

As it is getting to be desert season where I am, I have the urge to fly again.  I have broken out my old quad and flew it.  Did OK with the CC3D.  I was just LOS hovering around.  This got my going on finishing my setup.  I have the camera, VTx, VRx, goggles and it has been sitting for the last year.

I am back and I want to finish this.  So I just ran through the setup of the Nano, nothing weird, so far.  I have not gotten to the radio setup.  As it is late I will wait until tomorrow.  I need to re-read how to setup the flight mode switches on my 9x flash with a old version of of firmware.

I was looking at this GPS.  Any one anything about it?  Does it actually work with the CC3D or the Revo Nano?

https://www.banggood.com/Mini-Ublox-7M-GPS-Module-for-CC3D-Naze32-Flip32-SP-F3-Flight-Controller-p-1042849.html?rmmds=search

Just to show how old my Revo Nano is.  It was the second batch Open Pilot put out.  I was on the wait list for it.  Then just after I got it, Open Pilot went away.  I am so glad Libre Pilot is there.  They did help a lot back then.

Thanks for any and all help.  Looking forward to the learning process this will  Get the ole brain cells firing again.


Buzz.

[TheOtherCliff]

That GPS should work OK with either Nano or CC3D.

Nano has auto config so it will configure it to work if you connect it and tell it where it is connected.  I have a Nano with GPS on an F330 clone.

GPS doesn't do much on CC3D.  If you have telemetry, it will show where it is on the map in GCS.  That's about all.  Also, you must configure the GPS settings because it does not do auto configure.

Wiki should have some instructions to help you.

[blvdbuzzard]

Thanks.  If you could do it wrong, I did, at least once, some times twice.  I tried first ti set them up with the same vibration tape I used for my helicopter gyro's and flight control.  Thought I had a bad vibration problem as they would shake, wobble, twist and roll.  First 5 flight lasted less then 5 second each.  So I ordered the anti vibration mounts that use the 4 rubber tubes.  Got it all configured and low and behold, it lifted off and did the funky chicken.  Pulled it all off and bolted it straight to the frame.   Lifted off, 5 feet up and just sat there.  I was looking at it all confused because it never did that before.  I started flying around a little, just cruising. 

Then a few medical issues and I had to stop flying.  Now I want to get this back in the air with the camera and goggles.  That is my goal any way.  I have a lot to re-learn and new stuff to learn.

Thanks

Buzz.

[TheOtherCliff]

At very least, carefully balance your props.    Most quads can fly with or without anti-vibration mounting.  Some people balance their motors separately too.  I have a tiny quad with tiny 1106 outrunner motors that required motor balancing, but everything else seems OK without it.

[blvdbuzzard]

Made it trough the radio setup, through the sensor calibrations, all looks good on the screen

First test flight is exactly where I left off last time.  Lifts up about 6 inches and flips over and dives for the ground.  North is north, left is left.  I look at the flight data and when I move the quad it show on the screen the correct correct movement.  If I lean it to the right, it show a right bank.  Lift the nose, it shows that.  On the radio setup the stick movements are correct.  If I move the left stick left and right, it shows the stick move left and right, up and down, left and right throttle it all show correctly.  Motors turn the correct way, props on the right way.

Plug in the battery, arm, flip, busted props and dirt flying every where.  That was all I got last time and this is all I am getting this time.  This the reason I went to a PX4.

Buzz.

Edited for spelling.

[TheOtherCliff]

That Flight Data description is backwards.  When you lean it left, the display should tilt right.  Think about it.  If you tilt your head left, your right eye sees more sky than your left eye.

You changed something to "fix" what you thought was backwards.  Put it back. 

[blvdbuzzard]

What I mean or meant was if I lean to the right, it show I am leaning to the right, if I put it nose up it shows nose up, if I lean it left it shows I am leaning to the left.  If I move the stick to the left it show stick left and so on.

When in doubt, rip it out.  If it is broken, you can not break it.  So I will tear it apart, start from step one and try again and see what happens.  The other strange thing is throttle did not start until about 1/3 up. Then I had 1/3 throttle.

Going to be a hot one today, so I will stay inside with the AC blasting.


Buzz.

[blvdbuzzard]

I checked it all over, motors are plugged in, in the correct order, props are on the correct motors.  I went through the wizard, then the Tx wizard.  I stopped there.  I went for a test flight.  It is a little touchy, very responsive in the fore and aft, not so much in the left and right.  Yaw is very slow.  Drifts up and down, until I adjust the throttle.  Only mode I have setup is what is configured through the wizards.  It does fly.  I would not call this stable though.  The CC3D was a lot more stable.

I think I went wrong when I went through the sensor setup page.  Is that an absolute must do?  If I do that would that solve the touchy feeling to the controls?

As it seems there is hope for this.  I am going to order the GPS unit and think about mounting the camera on it.


Buzz.

[TheOtherCliff]

The other strange thing is throttle did not start until about 1/3 up. Then I had 1/3 throttle.

This is a typical description of ESCs needing calibration.
https://librepilot.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/LPDOC/pages/12058743/ESC+Calibration

Did you adjust roll (/pitch) rate and not adjust pitch (/roll) rate (or PID) (Stabilization page)?  That would make it more responsive on one axis than the other.

You can adjust Yaw rate to make it faster if desired.

It sounds like the CC3D was tuned differently than defaults and you need to tune Nano the same way.  Look at CC3D settings (make screen pictures) and hand copy them (PIDs, roll rates, etc.) to the Nano.  Nanos fly well.

[blvdbuzzard]

I did not adjust anything.  I went through the vehicle wizard, the transmitter wizard, went outside and test flew it.  This is what I did to the CC3D.  Only went through the wizards.

When I tried this last year, I plugged each ESC into the Rx, went through the auto calibration, high throttle, beep, beep, low throttle, beeps again.  I can do that again?  In the wizard I did go through the low I guess you would say low speed idle for each motor?  Seems (2) are always 1240, the other (2) are in the middle.  I printed out the manual ESC calibration page.  I will try that tonight.

I know the biggest problem is "ME", I just need to do it correctly and she will fly correctly.  I picked up some more props.  One has a bent tip.


Thanks.

Buzz.
 

[TheOtherCliff]

Try the page I mentioned.

[blvdbuzzard]

Worked like a champ.  Now all 4 motors start turning at 1250.  All spin the same, as I moved the slide they would all start at the same level.

Saved everything, put the props on, walked out side looking forward to a nice warm evening sunset flight and the ESC will not arm.  UGH.  I guess I need to raise the 1000 up a bit.  I tried lower the throttle trim and epa, but they wont arm.

I will try again tomorrow.  After work, brain said ahh not now.  So time for a cool drink rest a bit before bed.  Was 108 at my place today.  It is going to be hot through the weekend.  So time to stay inside with the AC and build.  I have the plans printed out, material ready to build the plane my other Revo Nano is going to be used in. 

I figure this is a journey not a race.  I am trying to learn as much as I can along this path.


Thanks.

Buzz.

[TheOtherCliff]

Generally your ESCs should have min=1000 and neutral=whatever makes them spin slowly

If the ESCs won't arm it is the min that needs to be tweaked.  Generally they arm OK if the min is the same as when you calibrated ESCs.  Changing throttle trim won't help the ESCs arm and can hurt the FC arming.  Dual rate switch on yaw (or however you arm) can also keep it from arming.

Generally don't ever change the transmitter trims at all after you do transmitter wizard.

[Mateusz]

Sorry to but in, but did you change Arming settings ? Sometimes when you do changes in configuration, for safety reasons this is again set back to Disabled, so you need to enable it again for example to yaw right.

[blvdbuzzard]

I am not saying the FC will not arm, I am saying the ESC's will not arm.  They just beep as if the Rx is not turned on.

I have a few ESC's that with the trim in the center, stick all the way down they will not arm.  I have to have the trim down too.  Then they arm just fine.

After I went through this calibration, the ESC's act as thought they are not getting a signal from the Rx.  I even re-bound the Rx thinking the Rx was not getting a signal from the Tx. Tried reversing throttle, nothing.  So I went through the wizard again, they arm just fine.  So the only thing I can think of is the low is to low for these ESC's?

I select low freq for the esc's. but the wizard changes that to high freq, so I guess it detects that they are able to use the high freq?


Thanks

Buzz.