[lysie]

Received a Sparky 2 today from banggood.. sadly baro altitude oscillates by +-5m - meh :/

I already send an email to banggood. Let´s see how they respond. It will be a mostly acro flying quad anyway but would have been nice to test the occasional gps mode. Best bet is probably to replace the voltage regulator but my soldering equipment isn´t quite up to that task.

Ah and the 3,3 / 5V toggle pads for the receiver port where bridged with resistors lol. I removed both of them and then bridged the 5V pad again with solder.

[f5soh]

Looks like they replaced the original Reg with this one:
www.micrel.com/_PDF/mic5219.pdf

So the C8 cap is not the right value anymore. Try removing or replace with a 470pF.

Code: [Select]

C BYP is an optional, external bypass capacitor connected to devices with a BYP (bypass)
If success i will update Wiki with your pics

[TheOtherCliff]

Waiting on your results with great interest.  My Sparky2 clone regulator is also marked LG33

Does LG33 clearly show (within reasonable limits of course) it is the brand / model that needs the 470pf cap?  Previously I had guessed that LG33 wasn't enough to identify the brand / model of regulator other than 3.3v. 

[hwh]

It's supposed to.  With the number of different manufacturers, number of SMD chips they make, short length code that will fit, and lack of a central registry there are duplicates. However I've never come across a duplicate that was the same package as the other chip with the same marking. 

This one, LG33, comes up easy in a google search but many of the codes are hard to cross reference.  While there are a couple of sites that have tried to collect codes in one place most of the time the only place the code is shown is in small print on the manufacturer's datasheet.  And google searches often can't find them.

[TheOtherCliff]

That's good news because it shows where my baro noise problem comes from. 

[lysie]

Ok guys, i have awesome news to report. It is definitely due to the cap.
Since i haven´t heard from banggood yet, i said fu** it and just remove the damn cap.



This is the result
Now i´m happy. Hope it will run fine without it.
It was hard enough the unsolder the damn thing.

[f5soh]

Good news 

[@marc]

Hi!

Looks like I have the same problem.
 

I bought this package from RCMaster: http://www.rcmaster.net/de-openpilot-cc3d-revolution-flugkontroller-mit-neo-7n-gps-und-power-distribution-board-interne-433mhz-p239545.htm


Is there anything someone with, let's say, very basic soldering skills can do about it?

Best Regards,
Marc

[f5soh]

For Revo try removing the C9 capacitor
Take a look here:
https://librepilot.atlassian.net/wiki/display/LPDOC/Altitude+Hold#AltitudeHold-Hardwareissues

[@marc]

"Remove" means I should just cut the connection, or should I short curcuit it?

[hwh]

Remove as in cut the connection.  I don't think the regulator would work if you shorted it.

[@marc]

Ok, will try this evening and report back.
Cut/Remove  C9, as in this pic. 

[TheOtherCliff]

If you have a small soldering iron, good eyes (or a magnifier), and reasonable soldering skills, you should be able to heat up the whole tiny component and quickly unsolder it / remove it.  That way you still have the component to put back if necessary (don't sneeze ).  If unsoldering, you must make sure you don't leave a solder bridge across the two very close and tiny solder pads.

[@marc]

Thanks for the tipp. I have good eyes and a magnifying glass. As for the soldering skills... well.

My idea was to cut one connection with an exacto knife, but heating up the whole component sound like a better idea. However, I don't know if my soldering iron is small enough.

[f5soh]

Just need a normal iron and heat the two pads at same time.
Or use a hammer and explode the C9 capacitor.