In short, you just need everything well balanced.
High powered motors or high flip rate stunts need strong expensive props.
The motors I fly are 250 watts or less and generally 1000KV or so on 3s. I use cheap (less than $1 each) eBay props. I do flips, but I limit config to 400 degrees per second flip rate. More may still be safe, but that is what I use. My largest are 500 quads with FPV and landing gear but no camera/gimbal.
I balance props by first marking the heavy blade for future reference. I trim a bit off the tip, round the corners, and retest. Some really bad cheap props need a lot taken off one blade. That isn't a problem. There even are such things as one blade props (the fewer the blades the more efficient the prop). Props can be out of balance "leading edge to trailing edge" in addition to "tip to tip". I generally don't worry about "leading edge to trailing edge". If I got one that was too bad I would just use a different prop.
Make sure you also track your props so the tips of the prop are in the same plane. A C shaped layer or 2 of paper or index card between prop and hub on the low side will get it tracking right. At the field, if needed I will bend it back into shape to get it tracking correctly again. I am still flying a prop that bent about 90 degrees in the middle of the blade that I carefully straightened. The plastic is a little white in that area, but you can't see any difference in the shape and it feels strong and isn't in a high stress location. I wouldn't have done it if it were bent at the hub at all.
Motors that have bolt on prop adapters can be straightened by a small number of layers of paper on one side between the motor and adapter. Spin with power (not hand) as slowly as possible and watch where the wobble ends as the motor stops. If you can see a wobble, you can make it better than it is. This is for new motors. If I bend an adapter I use a new one.
Motors can be balanced (prop off) by using the FC to graph vibration and find the right place to put a small piece of electrical tape on the motor to reduce vibration. Location of tape and amount of tape. Tape stickum may get soft with motor heat so you may want to use super glue to glue the tape down (adds weight) or just convert the tape into a couple layers of super glue now that you accurately know the location.
I've actually straightened a few of the steel prop shaft (3mm) motor type by hand and eye and pliers.
You can always do a final balance pass with FC vibration graph after the prop has been bolted on "permanently". Don't loosen the prop. One motor at a time to find which side and how much to adjust.