[tywysoges]

How can I tell if my Revos are faulty or if it is just bad software? I got 2 from banggood both do the same thing on artificial horizon, up and down looks to work but roll is very slow and unresponsive, what is wrong bug or hardware? 

[TheOtherCliff]

You need to have matching versions of firmware and GCS.  You didn't say if you do, but you need to start with that.

The GCS you are running comes with a matching version of firmware, so flash that to the Revo.  I suggest you go to the Firmware tab and do "Upgrade and Erase" and see if that fixes your issue.

After that, unplug it and plug it in again and don't move it.  Wait several seconds for it to reconnect to GCS, then it will flash blue and orange alternately and quickly for several more seconds.  When the fast blinking is done, check the artificial horizon again.

[tywysoges]

You need to have matching versions of firmware and GCS.  You didn't say if you do, but you need to start with that.

The GCS you are running comes with a matching version of firmware, so flash that to the Revo.  I suggest you go to the Firmware tab and do "Upgrade and Erase" and see if that fixes your issue.

After that, unplug it and plug it in again and don't move it.  Wait several seconds for it to reconnect to GCS, then it will flash blue and orange alternately and quickly for several more seconds.  When the fast blinking is done, check the artificial horizon again.

I tried everything like that. I get no warnings about mismatches. Why would gyro work fine in one direction but be VERY slow in the other? Anyone seen this before.

Both are the same. I saw your other thread about hardware troubles and solder, maybe mine is the same. I can find someone at school to look perhaps?

[f5soh]

This behavior occurs after a fresh Upgrade&Erase, nothing configured ?

Maybe a log can help.
1 - Disconnect board
2 - Got to Tools > Start logging
3 - Connect board
4 - Move for one minute for example
5 - Stop Logging and post file here.

[TheOtherCliff]

When you plug it into USB does it have a normal LED power on sequence?

- About 5 seconds of dim blue
- One quick blue blink
- About 2 seconds of slow alternating blue and orange blinks
- About 7 seconds of fast alternating blue and orange blinks
- Slow alternating blue and orange blinks from then on

We mention these things because after that comes "bad sensor". 

I wouldn't think that bad soldering would make one direction slow, but I could be wrong.  I would still check the board with a high powered magnifier.  I use a jeweler's loupe.

[tywysoges]

When you plug it into USB does it have a normal LED power on sequence?

- About 5 seconds of dim blue
- One quick blue blink
- About 2 seconds of slow alternating blue and orange blinks
- About 7 seconds of fast alternating blue and orange blinks
- Slow alternating blue and orange blinks from then on

We mention these things because after that comes "bad sensor". 

I wouldn't think that bad soldering would make one direction slow, but I could be wrong.  I would still check the board with a high powered magnifier.  I use a jeweler's loupe.

This is now resolved on one board, I have been testing it all day and it held up. It was a faulty MPU6000, one axis of the gyro was not working only accelerometer was, I had some guys replace it with a new part. If others have this same issue we used the part from here

http://uk.farnell.com/invensense/mpu-6000/ic-gyro-accel-9-axis-fusion-24qfn/dp/1862383RL

We won't buy any more of these, even those this one does work now the quality is bad and the baro is the cheaper lower resolution part as well.

[TheOtherCliff]

Glad you got it working.

A friend here was having baro problems.  When we graphed it, had about 4m of noise (on the bench) where a working board had only .5m of noise.
Sounds like we need to watch out and test baros first thing when we get a board.

[tywysoges]

We saw much more noise than real hardware on gyro as well, it makes the boards very hard to tune right. Mine at least works now but it is not great and much wasted time. I have a email here from the guys at the University that looked at this for me, I can share it with you in private if you like? They pull no punches but they have one more major concern that I do not want to get involved in public.

These clones are just not worth it. There are many inferior parts used, not just the cheaper Baro. The voltage regulators are really poor quality and make a serious amount noise compared to genuine and the modem is a copy as well.

Lesson learned for me.