[newpilot01]

Hi all,

Recently finished my 2nd build using the same CC3D board. It's my first fpv quad and have two successful fpv flights on it so far. The two fpv flights were great... we had unseasonably warm (55ish) weather for both flights. That being said, just today (25 degrees) I noticed that when I arm the board inside... everything works great... no problems. I go outside and begin walking to the field which takes 15 minutes... when I try to arm it there, the board doesn't even arm (no rapidly flashing blue light) or the flight stabilization feels like trying to balance a ball on an upside down bowl. Other people fly 2.4ghz there with no problems so it's probably not noise drowning out yaw right to arm.

Once i get back inside to the warm... the board behaves perfectly fine.

The only variable changing is temperature and the board seems to be misbehaving when it gets cool.

Granted: this board is beat up. It barely survived (walls, falls, "landing" upside down on the board) the first quad body it was in but it flies great when the environment is warmer.

Opinions?

newpilot01


PS: the zip tie/rat nest job might trigger some of you but I got anxious when building and just wanted to take advantage of the warm weather.

Loadout:

F450 flamewheel
CC3D
Hobbyking 30A ESC w/ UBEC
Sunnysky 2212 980kv
Pulse 3300mah 3s
Turnigy 9x tx/tx
Fatshark Predator V2 goggles/vrx/vtx

[NicholasDavid]

That's weird. I've got 3 cc3d's all flying just fine this winter. All in 220-250 sized racers. 15 degrees or 80 degrees. Doesn't seem to matter. I wonder if you have a trace in the board that's cracked or broken and the cold contracts the copper and it loses contact.

 In the arming tab you can set the way to arm and the time out that it disarms itself after so many seconds. Set the time to zero, arm inside and leave the armed copter out side to cool to the outside temp and see what happens. It sounds like it will shutdown once it's cools off and the copper in the board contracts.

If it won't stay armed or fly after you arm inside and leave outside to cool. I suggest replacing the board. 

I've had good luck with the cc3d boards from GetFPV if you are in the USA. ~$25

[newpilot01]

-set the disarm time to zero (disabled) and saved
-plugged in battery, armed inside (65F), hovered in my room just fine no problems
-took it outside (25F slight breeze)
-let sit for 10 minutes to cool off
-blue blinking led indicated it was still armed and when given a nudge of throttle engines 2 and 3 spun so fast i almost flipped on the ground
-disarmed, unplugged, replugged, armed (it actually armed this time) but taking off was like balancing a ball on an upside down bowl (impossible)
-disarmed
-promptly took inside, rearmed in room no problem, HOVERED NO PROBLEM. at all.

I think you're right. One of the crashes from the previous frame put a hairline fracture through a part of the board and when the copper in the board cools and subsequently contracts, the contacts weaken and stuff gets funky. The rest of the board is made of silica or something and i doubt it contracts as much as copper wires do in lower temperatures.

How do i physically clean a FC board? there's some dust and stuff on it... chlorox alcohol wipes?

Gonna order a new CC3D from getfpv...

thanks a lot

[NicholasDavid]

Just some rubbing alcohol and a q tip. Be careful though. Don't go scrubbing hard, it may remove lightly soldered or(partially soldered) component from the board. You should be fine though. Just don't scrub. The boards from get fpv are either available with stright or Angled pins pre soldered and it's white with red and green lights instead of the standard blue. I have 4 from them actually 2 stright pin and 2 Angeled pin ones. All 4 fly just great and as expected. I only have 3 copters though so the 4th is a spare for me.

I'm pretty sure from what you describe the hairline crack is your problem.  I originally had an older cc3d clone with the blue light and it's was super thin. It died after a few crashes. The get fpv ones are much thicker (2mm) and when you compare the two side by side you will see the difference. Many crashes in on these boards and everything is just fine.

One more thing. I'm running an older laptop on Windows 7 and the first time I  plug the new boards in they do take some time to get the drivers from widows and initialize. Maybe 10-20 minutes. But all have worked perfectly and we're all upgraded in the wizard like normal. No manual upgrade was needed.