[Daxo]

Hi guyz,

thought to share my micro build in progress, I'm using CC3D Nano and couldn't be happier how it performs with LibrePilot GCS despite the fact I'm running on Quad X Generic PID settings.

Fantastic FC+FW combo!



Setup:

Frame - Atas Micro 180
 http://www.dronematters.com/multirotors/300mm/quadcopters/dronematters-180.html

CC3D Nano
 http://www.banggood.com/Openpilot-MINI-CC3D-NANO-Atom-Flight-Controller-for-QAV250-Multicopter-250-Frame-Kit-p-992324.html?p=O521051806009201506W

Motors - 1806
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-Black-Edition-for-Multicopters-p-946416.html?p=O521051806009201506W

ESC's
http://www.banggood.com/ZTW-Spider-Series-18A-OPTO-ESC-With-SimonK-Oneshot-Program-p-983660.html?p=O521051806009201506W

Receiver
http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-D4RII-24G-4CH-ACCST-Telemetry-Receiver-p-929069.html?p=O521051806009201506W

Video Tx
http://www.banggood.com/Skyzone-Upgrade-TS5823S-40CH-5_8G-200MW-AV-Transmitter-Module-RP-SMA-Female-p-1017491.html?p=O521051806009201506W

Camera
http://www.dronematters.com/fpv/cameras-and-dvrs/pz0420m-mini-ir-blocked-600tvl-sony-super-had-d-wdr-ccd-camera.html

Propellers - KK 6040 cut down to 4040
http://www.banggood.com/KINGKONG-6040-Propellers-CW-CCW-10-Pairs-For-QAV250-RC-Multirotors-p-988179.html?p=O521051806009201506W


Anyway, at the moment I've just wired the power train and fc+rx since I'm using this frame to serve me as a PCB board test rig as well.



Looking good so far





I like how clean the build is looking so far





Did a maiden flight today, it's so much fun and it's super locked in thanks to the LP fw! Imho, the best possible FC/FW for just having fun with as little of setup hassle as possible.


Will be updating the thread with more photos as I install the remaining gear for my FPV build, stay tuned!

[Stuartambient]

Excellent build! What did you do with all the bulky wires coming off the FC?  My 180 is a bit different design and there was no room and cut the wires down and spliced.

[Daxo]

Hi Stuart,

yea, I really like how it turned out in the end as well, clean and simple.


I haven't done anything special in particularly, I bought the nano version of CC3D which doesn't have those annoying esc pins.

Instead, it has a 8pin-JST-SH Connector for the ESC signal and ground, same type which is used on the regular CC3D for the receiver connection.

http://www.banggood.com/Openpilot-MINI-CC3D-NANO-Atom-Flight-Controller-for-QAV250-Multicopter-250-Frame-Kit-p-992324.html?p=O521051806009201506W

Only thing left to do was to cut off those annoying servo plugs from the provided cable harness and solder the wires directly to my ESC Node board I've designed, that's all really.

[Stuartambient]

Hope you show you ESC node board.  I have the same fc board and trimmed down the wires and spliced to the ESC's.  Sucks because you lose the ability to easily upgrade esc firmware through the signal wire but it's all about compromising

Question - did you upgrade the firmware and / or bootloader on the board? I upgraded to the latest 15.09 but Device Information says CopterControl and BL is v. 3.  Not sure if that is part of my problem. 

Last question - how is the vendor DroneMatters, pretty reliable from Singapore?

[Daxo]

Sure

Nothing special really, but it does the job and makes the build a breeze to do.



Plus it's nice to be relaxed and not worry about cfk/power insulation or dirt/rain and if one of the esc's burns out i can replace it haha



This is just an initial prototype I'm currently testing, the rev 7 has a lot more current flow capabilities thus less heating. Not that there's any issue with that, barely warm on touch after flooring the throttle, just that, I have to consider if someone use it to do a 4s build, hence the reason that final will be 4oz not 2 oz.

Way too much but better safe than sorry haha





I also like the fact I don't have to greatly shorten the motor wires, which just doesn't seam practical at all in the long run.


Heres a comparison of 4x escs stock weight and later once assembled as DIY 4in1 with motor wires, without it's around 14.5 grams for 4x 18A esc.




For more details visit: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?47488-Development-of-the-ESC-NODE-a-k-a-DIY-4in1-ESC&p=790598#post790598


Oh, about the DroneMatters, Top notch in my experiance, highly recommended!

I'm using LP on mine, think it's the alpha version. Haven't really have any issues with it and didn't find time to update really.

[nitromethane]

That's a pretty tight setup you got there, and your ESC Node board looks nice, but it might not be the best thing if you're trying to minimize magnetic fields produced by your high current wiring, but then again it doesn't matter unless you're trying to do GPS navigation with onboard mag sensor (basically irrelevant in your case).

[Daxo]

Thanks Nitro,

    I've been flying larger frames but I gotta admit that i find this class so much fun and relaxing.
There's a lot more to it than I initially thought, enough to consider to invest more time into developing a bit more powerful/efficient design.


Yea, I agree this certainly is not for AutoPilot stuff, hence the size and it's purpose as fun wrecking ball haha


I'm not certain, but I guess that wrapping two layers of shrink tube with a copper foil in between around the Node could help greatly to reduce the EMI spread, but then again I imagine it would require a bit more thought about where to fit FC and GPS.  For GPS, a solid CFK plate beneath it could help shielding it additionally from the RF interference.

[nitromethane]

Grounded copper foil would help with reducing high frequency EM interference, but I was talking about low frequency/static magnetic fields that occur around a wire that has current flowing trough it, which can mess around with magnetometers (which should ideally only see earths magnetic field) and wreck GPS flight performance.
But for small wrecking ball quads with a controller that doesn't even have a magnetometer, this is irrelevant.

By the way, that's not a wrecking ball, THIS is a wrecking ball quad

[Daxo]

Makes sense,

Guess this is the reason that some designs move the magnetometer to the GPS unit which can be placed around the frame, away from power source.



Btw, Love the bird!