LibrePilot Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ewatt99 on December 27, 2016, 02:42:44 am
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Hello everyone, I recently built my first drone and im having problems with the flight controller. The first time i powered it on it slowly turned green and then turned off. Thinking I finally got it powered, I plugged in my reciever and it started smoking. I unplugged power and tried again. The receiver is getting power and it works now, binded and no problems except getting a little warm after awhile, but the CC3D isnt blinking or turning any LEDs on. I can't connect it to my computer either. Any thoughts? My receiver/trans is a FlySky FS-i6 and the brand CC3D is YKS with cover shell.
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I should probably state, the receiver smoked not the CC3D.
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You should power the FC with the BEC built into your ESCs, not directly from the flight battery. That is a 5v or 6v regulated power source.
FC power wires are all connected directly together so that power from the ESC/BEC goes in the FC ESC ("servo plug") connection and is available at the FC's receiver port, mainport, and flexiport, and one of those is connected to the receiver.
The FC is designed to be able to be powered from more than 6v, but it is not recommended because it causes a lot of heat and can lead to failure. I don't know the max voltage of your receiver. You could look that up on the internet.
Regardless, of the issue, the receiver is very probably damaged and you will need to buy another one. Any time there is smoke, assume that something just got destroyed. :(
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The original cc3d was designed to tolerate more than 5v power. So was the original revolution board. A lot of the clones use cheaper voltage regulators that are specified for a max input voltage much less than the original. I've seen some that the regulator is specified for a maximum input of 5.5 volts.
No lights at all is pretty much a dead board. The power LED connects to one of the voltage regulators and would come on even if the board had no (or damaged) firmware. I'd try to get the seller to replace it. Just don't mention anything about smoke. ;)
Even if they won't replace it a cc3d is cheap, the last ones I picked up on eBay cost me $7.95 each.
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Haha yeah probably both dead :-[ . But I didn't plug it in straight into the battery, I soldered wires positive and negative from my PDB, 5v, and they had the little plugs on them that i attached like pwm to the FC. This is what the guy said at my hobby store instead of buying a UBEC because my ESC's don't have BEC. So nice, love getting a dead board. Anyways thanks for the help.
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There was not any smoke from the CC3D which is why its upsetting for it to be someone alive and just die first time it has juice.
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Did you make sure that you did your 5v positive to the middle of the 3 pins and don't feel bad I had a revo I just tuned perfectly had a little crash and my BEC from my ESC must have shorted, shot 12 volts to the revo white smoked. I plugged it to the usb on my laptop everything lit up i thought i was good, but it will not pick up power from anything but the usb port so i just put it to the side and order a new one and a spare. Unless you like waiting on parts id recommend ordering a extra almost everything.
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Yup I did that. It is recieving power since my receiver is getting power from it, I think I just got a DOA or something.
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...but it will not pick up power from anything but the usb port...
If it works when connected to usb but not battery that's a 50 cent part.
on a revo it's PMEG4005CT, Digi-Key part number 568-6522-1-ND
on a cc3d it's BAT54C, Digi-Key part number 497-3786-1-ND
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...but it will not pick up power from anything but the usb port...
If it works when connected to usb but not battery that's a 50 cent part.
on a revo it's PMEG4005CT, Digi-Key part number 568-6522-1-ND
on a cc3d it's BAT54C, Digi-Key part number 497-3786-1-ND
It is a Revo where is a good place to buy them im not getting anything on that part number on ebay the PMEG4005CT comes up but i think ive got to be able to order them cheaper then $20 from China?
Thanks for lettting me know ive had it sitting in my junk box for a few months now.
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If it's just a diode (keeps the USB power and flight power from fighting) you could look at the schematic, short out the appropriate leads and get it to work, at least to test if replacing the component would fix it. I suspect that if the diode from the flight battery is bad, that there would be only minor consequence of USB increasing the voltage at the ESC/BEC power input.
Short the diode that comes from flight power and feeds the inputs of the voltage regulators, if memory serves.
If it were the other diode, there would be USB issues. Putting potenially more than 5v on the USB 5v lead and making it think that USB was connected when it wasn't.
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It is a Revo where is a good place to buy them im not getting anything on that part number on ebay the PMEG4005CT comes up but i think ive got to be able to order them cheaper then $20 from China?
Thanks for lettting me know ive had it sitting in my junk box for a few months now.
That's why I gave you the digikey part number, http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=568-6522-1-ND They're 41 cents each plus a couple of bucks of first class postage.
It has two diodes in a single component, one half does the power from USB and the other power from the BEC.
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It is a Revo where is a good place to buy them im not getting anything on that part number on ebay the PMEG4005CT comes up but i think ive got to be able to order them cheaper then $20 from China?
Thanks for lettting me know ive had it sitting in my junk box for a few months now.
That's why I gave you the digikey part number, http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=568-6522-1-ND They're 41 cents each plus a couple of bucks of first class postage.
It has two diodes in a single component, one half does the power from USB and the other power from the BEC.
I have attached pictures of my Revolution I only see one on my board i have swapped it out and still no power from the battery side?
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There's only one of those diode pairs on the board. Power comes in the connectors, goes through a few pcb traces and then through the diode. There are no other parts. The usb power goes from the usb connector, through traces to the other half of the diode pair. Everything after that is common to both usb and 5v power.
I don't see any burned traces or anything like that on your pictures. You're sure power is getting to the board? If you connect the 5v to one of the red/black pairs of pins you should read 5v (actually a couple of tenths of a volt less) on all the others and on the power pins of the other connectors.
The schematic for the board is in the repository as a pdf file you can download. https://bitbucket.org/librepilot/librepilot/src/c2cf44f8d817b46cce34f470213e90aea8b0d4eb/hardware/Production/OpenPilot%20Revolution/Revolution%20Schematic.pdf?at=next&fileviewer=file-view-default Maybe you can use it and a meter and trace where you're loosing power.
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I plugged in power to the first pin and I am reading 4.94 on every other pin but there could be something I am missing I have plenty of time building and troubleshooting problems with the quads but when it comes to the actual components on the boards my knowledge is limited I can swap things out but as far as understanding what does what i am still trying to learn it is not a easy thing to wrap my brain around but it was all quite confusing at first?
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It's sometimes hard for me to remember all the electronics stuff isn't obvious to everyone. I've been doing electronics for 45 years so most of it is second nature for me. :)
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Well you have power to the board (correct polarity?)
With the schematic, you can see where the power should be on the diode pair, one of the inputs and both of the outputs (outputs are wired together). Either it didn't get to the diode or the diode is open or the output pin is disconnected...
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Ok i get power to one side of the diode pair and not the other seems like it is a burnt out trace but for the money it was definitely worth the learning experience one day i'm sure i will learn enough to fix it, until that day comes it'll be in my ever growing parts drawer.
I appreciate everyones time thank you for all the help.
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Short that diode input to that diode output with a solder blob (I suggested that Dec 29) and I bet it will work.
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I'd bet it wouldn't. If there's no power getting to that input pin shorting it to the output side wouldn't do any good.
You could run a small jumper from the unused power pin on say the 6th servo connector to the diode pair input pin that doesn't have power on it. It wouldn't have to be a heavy wire, there's probably only 100ma or so running through it.
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Ah, I thought he meant that he was getting power to one side (the diode input) but not the other (diode output), implying that the diode was bad.
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Ok i will run a small wire off the 5v servo pin number 6 to the end of the diode pin that isnt getting anything at all this afternoon and see what happens thanks again for the help.
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I want to thank you all for the help. The wire did the trick and i learned a little along the way. I want to build a flight controller myself so i can learn more about the components is there any place i can buy a kit that comes with everything to build a cc3d or a revo?
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I'm glad it's working now. :)
I don't know of any place to get a kit of parts to build one. You can get the bare boards and order the individual parts.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/6dgLKViM
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/8Dz8BT1f
The parts lists (BOM) are in the repo https://bitbucket.org/librepilot/librepilot/src/479282137ecc96a06618a139e3ebe7e5c3e04bb9/hardware/Production/?at=next
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Before trying to build something, you should understand just how small the stuff is.
Also realize that the kit will be more expensive than the built version.
There are practice boards you can buy, but you could buy a CC3D from eBay for $8 shipped. If you can unsolder one of those and solder it back together, you have the necessary skill. Of course verify that everything works before taking it apart. Yes, unsoldering too since things have to be redone sometimes.
I have one of these. It has soldering, reflow (desoldering = hot air), variable voltage power power supply, etc. It was a steal at $90, and they are only $65 now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-853D-SMD-Hot-Air-Iron-Gun-Rework-Soldering-Station-Welder-6-Gift-DC-/201259657086
Get some kapon tape too. It is a heat shield for when you want to remove this but not that.