LibrePilot Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: MrHeli4444 on October 24, 2015, 08:07:52 pm
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A place to talk wood.
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I knew this would be you Jim. :)
I really like that latest mini you posted about. I hate to use the word, but it is cute. ;)
I've thought about making some simple wooden quads, but I got lazy buying plastic kits for $15 from eBay.
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I knew this would be you Jim. :)
I really like that latest mini you posted about. I hate to use the word, but it is cute. ;)
I've thought about making some simple wooden quads, but I got lazy buying plastic kits for $15 from eBay.
Hi Cilff, Thank you... I will be adding pics of this micro build as it progresses here. The best part about scratch building is
never waiting for frame parts and one of the main reasons I began building my own frames.
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That's a cool looking little copter. I should build one just to have something a bit different.
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Thank you xpantz....todays progress
Here's the camera and vtx this is a nice micro set up for $31.
Dial in the regulator to 3.9v to run the camera
BOM
FX758 http://www.banggood.com/FPV-5_8G-200mW-32CH-Wireless-Audio-Video-AV-Transmitter-Module-FX758-2-p-980317.html
600 TVL cam http://www.banggood.com/600TVL-8_0MP-14-2_8mm-CMOS-FPV-170-Degree-Wide-Anlge-Lens-Camera-PALNTSC-p-984345.html
CL antenna http://www.banggood.com/FPV-5_8GHz-Micro-CL-TX-Anternna-0_8g-Lightweight-p-973291.html
Pololu S7V8A Step Up/Step down (tuned to 4V) https://www.pololu.com/product/2118
1.25mm micro-JST 2p conectors (male+female) http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pair-Micro-JST-1-25-2-Pin-Male-and-Female-Connector-plug-with-Wires-Cables-HK-/291478049511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43dd7212e7
Total bill: 11.16+9.80+3.99+6USD + 3.94/20 = 31.15 USD
If you want to install a narrower lens, you need a M7xp0.5 compatible one, for example the 808#16 lens model: http://www.banggood.com/Lens-D-Module-120-Degree-with-case-for-808–16-HD-Camera-Camcorder-720P-Mini-DV-p-906428.html
Results
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Does not get any simpler than that.
Loving the tower with the FPV cam on it and the Flintstone Gimbal :-)
I made one a while back but one of the bloody bells came off a brand new motor and it destroyed itself.
Never buy cheap motors :-)
Might rebuild another.
The 3mm ply was cut out on a laser.
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Does not get any simpler than that.
Loving the tower with the FPV cam on it and the Flintstone Gimbal :-)
I made one a while back but one of the bloody bells came off a brand new motor and it destroyed itself.
Never buy cheap motors :-)
Might rebuild another.
The 3mm ply was cut out on a laser.
Pretty build... sorry about the crash..
Set screws are loose on motors often...even tigers!...think i'll go check mine now...thanks for posting this
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We have video.. ;)...might just have room for an 808
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Got Wood?
(Somebody had to say it. Now it doesn't have to be you.)
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Your micro is pretty cool Jim - super light weight.
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Thanks Norm...Landing gear on
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https://youtu.be/R-wYrJoWBxw
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Nice flight, very stable and smooth. 8)
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Nice flight, very stable and smooth. 8)
Thank you Laurent! LibrePilot makes it easy
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Cool mini build MrHeli4444. Which wood type did you use for the mini?
Regards
T
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Cool mini build MrHeli4444. Which wood type did you use for the mini?
Regards
T
Thank you Traveller....I used Spanish Cedar for this build. Super light and stronger than Balsa.
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242 g AWU Really impressed with the 1104 motors. Lifting the mobius with a little room left.
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Some low numbers on this little guy.
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Just put on some HQ 3X3 props....no good motors got too hot to touch... :(...went back to the orange 3x2.
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Love the thread Jim. Great to see more new frames coming to life. As someone recently commented on my wooden B4 quad that you built "Man, that frame is awesome. It's 3D flying art"
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Love the thread Jim. Great to see more new frames coming to life. As someone recently commented on my wooden B4 quad that you built "Man, that frame is awesome. It's 3D flying art"
Thank you Ant :)
Starship LibrePilot is back in dry dock. **Be advised** During a recent 5 minute mission #4 engine broke free from it's mounts while while running at 70% thrust. Galaxy warnings have been sent out. The engine was last seen breaking apart while speeding past the dwarf star Alpha Centauri C. The crippled ship made it back to port safely on 3 engines where it's being repaired. Keep an ear to the ground via this thread for updates.
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Scotty can do it!
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Out of dry dock with a new #4 motor and she's been fitted with illumination!
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Illuminators a bit too high tech for a Flintstones copter ;-)
I was thinking it should have coach lamps or similar.
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Illuminators a bit too high tech for a Flintstones copter ;-)
I was thinking it should have coach lamps or similar.
ha ha ..old and new on the Starship LP ;D
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Have begun an Octo build. A 220mm Micro Octo with a gimbal I'm hoping.
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Todays progress..Fitting video gear while waiting on motors.
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CCD cameras work better at night than CMOS. If you get a camera that has OSD (buttons and settings menu), you can adjust things like make it more sensitive for night flight, or make it where looking at sun you can still see ground, or fix bad colors that happen when there is no white in picture. Also automatic SenseUp can get even more light sensitivity by reducing frame rate.
A good CCD camera plus a good light gathering lens will make it possible to fly with just moonlight. My best camera sees better in the moonlight than I do, I don't have trouble walking around in the moonlight.
CMOS can definitely be smaller, lighter, less expensive.
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CCD cameras work better at night than CMOS. If you get a camera that has OSD (buttons and settings menu), you can adjust things like make it more sensitive for night flight, or make it where looking at sun you can still see ground, or fix bad colors that happen when there is no white in picture. Also automatic SenseUp can get even more light sensitivity by reducing frame rate.
A good CCD camera plus a good light gathering lens will make it possible to fly with just moonlight. My best camera sees better in the moonlight than I do, I don't have trouble walking around in the moonlight.
CMOS can definitely be smaller, lighter, less expensive.
Good info Cliff. Most of the flying i'll be doing with this rig will be indoors in well lit areas. Would be fun to set up a night flyer with a CCD camera and custom night settings. Good to know this. thank you
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I put lifts on the 4 CW motors for overlaping props. May need to make the lifts a bit higher but will try it like this first. Just waiting on a few more parts she should be airborne by the weekend... I went with the DYS 3100kv... 4" props for starters
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Will there be illuminators?
Just thinking it might be hard to tell which way it was flying... if you fly it LOS.
Looking good!
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Will there be illuminators?
Just thinking it might be hard to tell which way it was flying... if you fly it LOS.
Looking good!
Thank you xpantz...Have green props on the way that will go on the front 4 motors
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Maybe need 3 colors of props? Green for two front props. Black for six side props. Red for two back props. ? :)
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Maybe need 3 colors of props? Green for two front props. Black for six side props. Red for two back props. ? :)
great now i gotta buy more props....good idea Cliff :)
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MrHeli, your always an inspiration. Cool little Octo!
This isn't a woodie but it's about using wood.
I needed a GPS mount for my hex, searched around for 3D printed one then decided to build my own. Almost done.
A few bits of Baltic birch ply, a chunk of carbon tube, a bit of 3/4 inch birch dowel tapered on a bench sander, epoxy for the wood/carbon bond. Just need paint and to make up a cable then glue top to bottom.
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I needed a GPS mount for my hex, searched around for 3D printed one then decided to build my own. Almost done.
Great idea. Looks nice too.
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MrHeli, your always an inspiration. Cool little Octo!
This isn't a woodie but it's about using wood.
I needed a GPS mount for my hex, searched around for 3D printed one then decided to build my own. Almost done.
A few bits of Baltic birch ply, a chunk of carbon tube, a bit of 3/4 inch birch dowel tapered on a bench sander, epoxy for the wood/carbon bond. Just need paint and to make up a cable then glue top to bottom.
This is the place for wood. Thanks for posting it. Nice fab job looks great
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Man lots of soldering on an octo.
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Lots of soldering indeed!
Dumb question, where do you connect the esc's for motors 7&8?
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Lots of soldering indeed!
Dumb question, where do you connect the esc's for motors 7&8?
Very good question not dumb at all....All new ground here for me so what I am going to try is 12345 into the outputs on the board #6 pin I will use to bring power in because I'm using opto esc's. That uses all 6 pins on the board....so that leaves 678...that still need signal... they will get signal from the Receiver port flexi-io which can be configured for output I will use 678...hi hopes that this will work :)
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Lots of soldering indeed!
Dumb question, where do you connect the esc's for motors 7&8?
Very good question not dumb at all....All new ground here for me so what I am going to try is 12345 into the outputs on the board #6 pin I will use to bring power in because I'm using opto esc's. That uses all 6 pins on the board....so that leaves 678...that still need signal... they will get signal from the Receiver port flexi-io which can be configured for output I will use 678...hi hopes that this will work :)
Thanks.
For power to the board on my hex (opto esc's) I used a Pololu 5v 1A step down, common ground, +5v lead stuck into the middle of one of the opto esc's. Works good, and MUCH smaller/lighter then any ubec I'm aware of.
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How about one of these for USD $0.75 shipped. 8)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-replace-LM2596s-FC0-/221921993847
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How about one of these for USD $0.75 shipped. 8)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-replace-LM2596s-FC0-/221921993847
Cliff, you never cease to amaze me! Yet another link to save in the TheOtherCliff folder.
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She's in the air. Feels like enough power to lift a gimbal ok. First test flights with 4 2.5 gem fan props 2200 batt.
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How about one of these for USD $0.75 shipped. 8)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-replace-LM2596s-FC0-/221921993847
Cliff, you never cease to amaze me! Yet another link to save in the TheOtherCliff folder.
Alessio pointed that style out to me. Of course I had to buy some for stock. I haven't flight tested them yet. I wouldn't trust the 3A rating, but they should be happy powering FC, GPS, OSD, Rx for maybe an amp total.. I think that 3A is probably inflated as are a lot of specs for stuff on eBay.
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Alessio pointed that style out to me. Of course I had to buy some for stock. I haven't flight tested them yet. I wouldn't trust the 3A rating, but they should be happy powering FC, GPS, OSD, Rx for maybe an amp total.. I think that 3A is probably inflated as are a lot of specs for stuff on eBay.
I've used several of that step-down before having known pololu regulators. No issues at all, but I prefer the Pololu for its small size and the components of much higher quality.
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Have the gimbal roughed in. I'll have to wait for the camera to get the C of G before i can go further. Landing gear will have to be a bit longer. She's gonna look like a flying spider.
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How to get eight motors working and also
a WS2811LED a buzzer and a BEC for
power to the board
Here's the config I used that was suggested by liftbag.
A great way, frees up output 3 and 4 for other options
like bec power to the board if using opto, a status light WS2811LED,
and a lost quad buzzer, etc.
ESC1 > Servo Output 1
ESC2 > Servo Output 2
ESC3 > Servo Output 5
ESC4> Servo Output 6
ESC5 > Flexi IO PIN7
ESC6 > Flexi IO PIN8
ESC7 > Flexi IO PIN9
ESC8 > Flexi IO PIN10
To activate the signals for ESC's 5678 go into
Hardware> Receiver port> select "Output"
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Great information here Jim. This should help people with setups that use more than 4 motors. Octo looks Great by the way 😊
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Finding C of G on a scratch built gimbal
first pic is roll C of G point
this where the roll motor is placed
the pitch motor is centered on the frame on the pitch axis and does not need a measurement
second pic is load C of G the center point where it will be fastened dead center to the octo
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Finding C of G on a scratch built gimbal
first pic is roll C of G point
this where the roll motor is placed
the pitch motor is centered on the frame on the pitch axis and does not need a measurement
second pic is load C of G the center point where it will be fastened dead center to the octo
Thanks for sharing, been wondering how to accomplish that. What motors do you use?
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Finding C of G on a scratch built gimbal
first pic is roll C of G point
this where the roll motor is placed
the pitch motor is centered on the frame on the pitch axis and does not need a measurement
second pic is load C of G the center point where it will be fastened dead center to the octo
Thanks for sharing, been wondering how to accomplish that. What motors do you use?
This is a small gimbal with a light load so I chose these.
http://flyduino.net/Flyduino-G2208-018mm-80-Turns-Motor-for-Alex-Mos-Gimbal
A pair for both pitch and roll.
I don't feel a third yaw axis is necessary so I like
a 2 axis set up. The cost of lifting a 3rd motor is not worth it...IMHO
Yaw doesn't need the stabilization required for pitch and roll to
get that "cinematic effect".
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Done testing props and batteries. 4 4.5 props and 2200 batts seem to be best for this rig. 4 1/2 minute flight times which is fine for the type of shooting I will be doing with this. Mostly short panning shots less than a minute. Will have a video out tomorrow if all goes well.
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Hi Jim. What kind of props are you using? Bullnose or full tips?
[EDIT]
Ok, now I see the pictures, bullnose.
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Hi Jim. What kind of props are you using? Bullnose or full tips?
[EDIT]
Ok, now I see the pictures, bullnose.
Hi Paolo, jhan gave me some DAL BN 5" they have a soft tip to test but motors still got hot. I also tried 4s with the 4" but efficiency just changed slightly to a longer flight by 20 sec's. So i went back to 3s to be safe. Don't want to push the esc's too hard with 4s. I also tried the soft basic 5" gem fans w 4s but it was squrriley. The bull nose 4 4.5 seem to fly smoothest with longest flight times at 4 1/2 minutes motors/ esc's just slightly warm.
I could go bigger motors bigger props which are more weight meaning a bigger size overall aircraft. I'm trying hard keep it small as possible for indoor shooting.
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Onward...going big this time. Haven't built anything really big yet. 785mm 13" props is what I have laid out. I'll be using all Basswood for this build. right to left main body, top plate, and the 2 arms on left.
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Arms 605mm with grove ploughed out for motor wires
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Body shaped and ESC's fitted, vibration dampeners cut from tubing.
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Super idea, means here in Africa we can do many type of them, but some woods from Congo are really Heavy but extra strong.
Why someone cannot involv IKEA on production of wood drones?
Is not a joke, it will be an idea. And shape of drone of IKEA can be the K, why not?
For sure they will issue a clear installation notices, not like most of Asia manufacturers of drones...!
from Paolo, Kigali - Rwanda
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Finally, my swallow tail is 90% complete, just need to add flight and FPV cams etc.
Before I do I want to see if I can muddle through some oscillation/erratic flight issues I have encountered on other frames in GPS mode, i.e. see if they replicate on this new, default config'd frame. I'm also curious to see how the BG Revo clone performs in GPS modes.
Anyway, here are some pics for my fellow wood heads out there.
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Looks great ggrif. Swallow Tail ya man this is cool, nice build!
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Appreciate the kind words, thanks!
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ggrif - nice build. Looking forward to hearing how the flights go.
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This quad is simply beautyful! Close to be a piece of Art!
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That's really beautiful. I'd never have thought to make one out of plywood because I'd have thought it would be too heavy. How much does it weigh when it's flight ready?
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That's really beautiful. I'd never have thought to make one out of plywood because I'd have thought it would be too heavy. How much does it weigh when it's flight ready?
Thanks! 1240g w/3s 3300, 11 minutes cruising. Mid-deck is basswood, birch ply makes up the rest. Learned about it from MrHeli and Terrier from OP.
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Not much action over here in woody land, thought I'd post a few pics of some things I've been working on, see if we can breathe some life back in to this thread 😃
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Nice work. Love the smaller frame - looks like it would have a lot of power. I have one similar to that and it is an awesome little FPV rocket.
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Not much action over here in woody land, thought I'd post a few pics of some things I've been working on, see if we can breathe some life back in to this thread 😃
Very nice work ggrif. So rewarding designing and building your own. Thank you for posting these beauties!
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Nice work. Love the smaller frame - looks like it would have a lot of power. I have one similar to that and it is an awesome little FPV rocket.
To date I've only flown 5" crap props, will be running 6" soon, when I finish breaking all the 5's😏
AUW with 1300 4s is 599 grams, a bit porky by today's racing standards I guess, but it's pretty tough and only one piece.
How about you, anything new?
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Not much action over here in woody land, thought I'd post a few pics of some things I've been working on, see if we can breathe some life back in to this thread 😃
Very nice work ggrif. So rewarding designing and building your own. Thank you for posting these beauties!
MrHeli, thanks but I'm really curious why you've been up to? I'm lovin the options available in CNC, made a hell of a lot of sawdust!